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Old 18th September 2014
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Default wingless' Marine Air System

My 2000 380 Searay Sundancer is about to get a custom air compressor now, then add a horn and maybe an air whistle system later.



The first step was selection of a compressor. I have a Oasis XD3000-12 compressor. This has been customized to add features like forced air cylinder / head cooling, like is present on the XD4000-12 compressor, only mine has much more airflow and mine has ductwork to suck in fresh, exterior air.

The compressor is located in an inaccessible / unusable area of the hull, between the inner and outer hull. This volume is outside the ignition-protected environment, where it is prohibited / unwise to install anything that makes a spark, like this compressor, that could ignite gasoline vapors, even though those vapors should not exist. This is an ABYC (boat) requirement. When I inspect the compressor, like for checking the oil level, I need to unscrew and slide-out the ice maker. Then I have excellent access.

The compressor location has access to exterior air, but not enough to provide acceptable cooling. My system has one of these 4" 220CFM SHURflo yellowTAIL In-Line Blowers w/ ducting to the exterior, then to a custom shroud dumping onto the compressor cylinders / head.

This location is very handy. It is directly above my battery bank. I am using one of these 200A Blue Seas Systems 187-Series Circuit Breakers to provide both the circuit protection and the power feed on / off function. The compressor is wired to power the fan whenever the compressor is running. I will monitor the head temperature to determine if it would be better to reconfigure the fan power to have the fan instead thermostatically controlled. I also have a dash-panel enable / disable switch for the compressor.

Last edited by wingless; 10th May 2018 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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Old 18th September 2014
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Default Re: wingless' Marine Air System

My system maintains the tank at 200 p.s.i. using a Oasis pressure switch, then regulate the output w/ a high-CFM adjustable regulator. My system uses the largest plumbing and fittings that will fit, necking down only where required for the devices utilized. The regulator will be positioned to be accessible w/o dismantling the boat.

The pump is a TCCI Manufacturing LLC, model EA210L, two-cylinder 10 cubic inch compressor, once produced by Borg-Warner. One intended usage for this compressor is for refrigeration. This appears to be an excellent well-made compressor, that is designed for durability.

The TCCI Service Manual does not mention oil changes. At this point I will inspect / add oil, but not perform oil changes.

The Oasis XD-3000 compressor uses a Trombetta 684-1251-012-02 continuous duty contactor to switch the high motor current on and off.

Mine has the Advanced Motors & Drives 140-01-4013 12V/24V 4.8KW DC motor.

This is a heavy-duty motor w/ Class H 180°C insulation.

These are all very good components, for a well-built unit.

Last edited by wingless; 14th August 2016 at 07:53 AM. Reason: Updated Trombetta Link
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Old 18th September 2014
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Default Re: wingless' Marine Air System

The compressor location has access to exterior air, but not enough to provide acceptable cooling. My plan is to use one of these 4" 220CFM SHURflo yellowTAIL In-Line Blowers w/ ducting to the exterior, then to a custom shroud dumping onto the compressor cylinders / head.

Here is the design for the custom shroud and the location for the fresh air 4" duct input for the head / cylinder cooling for my Oasis XD3000 compressor.

This permits me to relocate the on/off switch to the shroud. The low-voltage indicator lamp is relocated to my dash rocker switch, having one indicator lamp for power, one for low voltage.


CAD Design



Welded Shroud and Inlet Locator



Exterior Air Inlet

Last edited by wingless; 10th May 2018 at 06:34 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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Old 18th September 2014
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Default Re: wingless' Marine Air System

This is the Nason CD-1B4-150J/WLVT187 100 to 250 p.s.i. adjustable pressure switch. According to the linked data sheet, this is a 100 - 400 p.s.i. adjustable switch w/ a ¼" NPT male connection, normally closed contacts, adjustable rising setpoint, 18" wire leads, Viton 514 AD diaphragm, w/ a slotted head, instead of Allen head, adjustment lock screw.

The NEMA rating on this pressure switch is NEMA Type 4 and NEMA Type 13, w/ some protection from water and dust.
The specification sheet lists a 10-20% setpoint to restart point differential hysteresis.




This is the check valve. It is a Control Devices CA-12 Load Genie Unloading Check Valve. It is a 3/8" NPT valve, rated for 3 to 12 CFM flow.

The internal moving mechanism could be hurt by excessive torque. The instructions specify 10 ft-lbs of tightening torque, maximum.



The installation uses a combination of flexible hoses and rigid pipe for the air distribution.

The compressor is connected to a 3/8" diameter by 2' long Viair Stainless Steel Braided Leader Hose. This will provide vibration isolation from the compressor.

The system uses rigid 1" diameter Type L copper tubing and 95-5 Tin - Antimony solder for the primary distribution. This is around the compressor and the engine room. According to this table these materials provide sufficient rating to operate at the planned 200 p.s.i. My plan is to run the tank and plumbing at 200 p.s.i. up to the high-CFM regulator that feeds the valve then the horn.

My system is using this 15 gallon, 200 p.s.i. working pressure tank. I have mounted this upside down, bolted to the ceiling of the engine room.






Last edited by wingless; 10th May 2018 at 07:34 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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Old 18th September 2014
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Default Re: wingless' Marine Air System

The tank was sanded down for a fresh paint job.

The threads for the port openings were all chased w/ the appropriate-size pipe thread tap, to clean out any prior crud.

The nipples were all selected to be the extra-thick wall Schedule 160 seamless black steel parts, to tolerate the 200 p.s.i operating pressure.

The tank has one ¼" fitting, that was used for a drain, but I have mounted this upside down, so I have used the high-pressure forged black steel square head plug for this and for all other unused fittings.

There are three ½" NPT fittings across the top, now bottom, two are plugged, one is being used for a drain.

The side ports are 3/4" NPT. The air entry has a short nipple, then a 3/4" to 1" coupling, another short nipple, then a dissimilar metal union, so all the rest of the plumbing can be 1" Type L copper.

My hope / plan is to have the air passages as large as possible throughout the system, all rated for 200 p.s.i. working pressure.

My preference is to use pipe dope, instead of tape. On this project, I assembled the fittings, cleaned off the dope, then painted.











Last edited by wingless; 10th May 2018 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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Old 18th September 2014
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Default Re: wingless' Marine Air System

This system has been mounted on a boat w/ gasoline engines. As such, the compressor and all other electrical components need to either be ignition-protected (won't make a spark) or must not be mounted in the engine room (which extends to a defined ignition-protected volume), both to be compliant w/ the ABYC standards and to follow common sense and not create the possibility to blow up.

On my boat there is a volume alongside and aft of the ice maker, on the port side of the boat that is outside the ignition-protected volume. The compressor is mounted in this volume. It has access to forced fresh air, via a duct and blower, dumping air onto the cylinder head and providing air to the compressor intake. Excess air exits through existing openings.

The initial testing shows GREAT results. There is a HUGE volume of air dumping across the head, using the blower and my custom shroud.
It is close to an ideal location. It is a short electrical run to the battery banks. (It will be wired through a 200A circuit breaker to three 125Ah AGM batteries and I can easily connect two more, if required.) It has plenty of fresh air. My preference is to bolt components in-place, but I cannot do that w/ the compressor, so I am using the 3/4" plywood that will be lag-screwed onto the deck. (One of the 140 gallon fuel tanks is below that deck, so I cannot access the other side to position a nut or bolt.) The oil level will be visible only after sliding-out the ice maker. This is a dry location, not exposed to any water.

The new plywood mounting plate is epoxy-coated, along w/ the rest of that volume, on top of existing resin and gel coat, for additional protection.

Part of the installation is to remote mount the on/off switch, on/off indicator and the low-battery indicator onto the dash, w/ all the other switches. I was able to locate a SPST switch w/ two indicators that matches the existing switches and will fit into an existing empty position.

This custom installation requires that I design and create a circuit to take the existing integrated LED indicator / circuit and make it instead drive the new incandescent indicator in my new dash switch. I designed, built and tested that new circuit. It works great. The second indicator comes on, as-expected, when the battery voltage drops low, when the compressor shuts-down due to low voltage.


New Switch On


New Switch Low Battery


Compressor Mounting Location


Compressor Dry Fit

Last edited by wingless; 10th May 2018 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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Old 19th September 2014
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Default Re: wingless' Marine Air System

Impressive work. Love the boat.
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Old 19th September 2014
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Default Re: wingless' Marine Air System

Excellent job with the install and comments!
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Old 21st September 2014
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Default Re: wingless' Marine Air System

Wow! Great detail & pics!
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  #10  
Old 6th January 2015
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Default Re: wingless' Marine Air System

Here is some more information on my custom air system.


This 200 PSI 15 gallon Manchester Tank is mounted upside down in the engine room, bolted to the engine room ceiling / floor of the transom locker storage compartment.

A scissors jack was used to push the tank up against the ceiling to bolt it tightly in-place.






The system is plumbed w/ 1" pipe / tubing throughout. The 1" Type L copper w/ 50/50 Tin/Lead solder is used from the tank through the regulator, to the air chuck and to the 1" ID 300 PSI Buna-N flexible hose, going through the arch to the horns and whistle.

As much MAP torch soldering as possible was done off the boat. The fiberglass and gasoline are WAAY to flammable.

This is the manifold leading from the tank to the regulator and the fill hose / check valve.


Last edited by wingless; 10th May 2018 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Replaced PB extortion w/ Flickr
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